



a. Mcdowell 



AMERICAN SOflNTIFiO 




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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, 

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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



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A. McDowell's 



AMERICAN SCIENTIFIC 



PANTALOON 



DELINEATOR 



PATENTED THROUGHOUT THE WORLD. 

Price, $25.00 for the Machine and Instruction Book. 



,V OF CO/V^ 



1891. 



PUBLISHED BY 

a. Mcdowell & co., 

Nos. 4 & 6 WEST 14th STREET 
NEW YORK CITY U. S. A. 



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COPYRIGHTED, 1891, 

BY 

a. Mcdowell & co. 



CUT OF PANTALOON DELINEATOR. 



CUT OF PANTALOON DELINEATOR. 





PLATE I. 



PLATE 2. 



INTRODUCTORY. 



In presenting to the trade this new method for Drafting Pantaloons, I do so with a feeling 
of assurance that it will be almost universally adopted by all Cutters who wish to use actual 
measure in the work, for the reason that, with the aid of the machine, they can produce in a more 
rapid and scientific manner the very same results which all good Cutters get. 

In other words, you can obtain the desired result in a much quicker and simpler way than 
by drafting with the square, thereby saving both time and trouble. 

There is no mystery about this Trousers Drafting Machine. It simply gets its outline from 
the measures, and when arranged by them has the same shape as a pattern drafted with the 
square from the same measures and from the same base line. 

The object in making this Pantaloon Drafter was two-fold : — . 

First, to have an easy simple method to learn. 

Secondly, to have a rapid and accurate system to use. 

These results we have obtained in such a perfect manner that the A I Cutters, who have 
tested the machine by actual use, have pronounced it a Grand Success. 

The idea of using a machine for Drafting Garments is not new. One machine which I made 
for drafting- Ladies' Garments has been in constant use for 10 vears, and is now the standard 
system. It is used by nearly all good dressmakers and Ladies' Tailors. 

Over 37,000 have already been sold in this country alone. 

Why we selected this particular plan for drafting Pantaloons, and not some other ; or why 
we made the machine this way and not that, are questions which, if answered, would lead us into 
endless discussion without an}" good result. 

I simply say, test this Pantaloon Delineator and you will find it correct, and that it will 
save you time and trouble. 

We know that if it is used correctly it will do all we claim for it. 

"The proof of the pudding is in the eating of it." So with this machine : the proof is in the 
using of it. 

Give it a correct measure and it will give you a correct pattern. It is only a universal 
pattern for pantaloons which gets its size and outline from the measures. 

Yours truly, 

a. Mcdowell 



THE MEASURES. 



Remember that the style and fit of the Pantaloons both depend on the measures you take. 

Measuring is much more particular than many cutters have considered it to be. 

We therefore ask you to use great care in this part of your work. 

When you are not certain about any measure you are taking do not pass it, but take it over 
again very carefully and decide it before you take another. 

The order in which the measures are taken makes no difference so long as you do not get 
them mixed. 

You will find the following order handy in setting the Drafting Machine, and for that reason 
is probably the best for you to follow. If you should like some other order better use it. 

When you take the measure, have the customer stand erect and squarely on both feet. 
Have him stand on a platform or box about 12 inches high. 

FIRST. The Waist Measure is taken at the height of the waist seam. Pass the tape 
around the bod}' at this point and have it comfortably tight. 

SECOND. The Seat Measure is taken over the largest part. Pass the tape around over 
the seat and hips, keeping it over the fullest part, and draw the tape up snug, not too tight 
but close. 

THIRD. The Knee Measure is taken around the Knee according to fashion. 

NOTE. In following fashion you must use your head to be successful. When the style 
is 20 inches at the knee, this means 20 inches for a medium sized person. Do not make the 
knee the same 20 inches for a 30 and 5o seat measure. This suggestion applies equally to the 
foot measure. 

For medium pantaloons the knee measure is about one-half the seat measure. Of course 
both the knee and foot are tight or. loose according to fashion. 

FOURTH. The Foot Measure is at the bottom of the leg, and is decided according to 
fashion. It is generally one inch less than the knee, but not always. 

FIFTH. The Inside Length is best taken while the person measurirtgfis in a stooping position. 

Take the end of the tape in the left hand between the thumb and first finger. Press the end 
up to the fork or crotch, and then with the right hand measure down to the knee and on down 
to the boot heel for the full inside length. 

SIXTH. For the outside or full length measure start at the point where the waist band 
seam is to be, and measure clown to the top of the boot heel. 

The thigh and belly measures are not much used. We shall refer to them later. 




AMERICAN SCIENTIFIC PANTALOON DELINEATOR. 



TO SET THE MACHINE 



HOW TO SET THE FRONT. 



PLATE 3 IS THE FRONT. 

PLATE 4 IS THE BACK. 

We shall use the following measures for prac- 



tice. 



Waist, 32 

Seat or Hip, 36 
Knee, 19 

Foot, 18 



Outside Length, 42. 
Inside Length, 32. 



We shall not use the thigh or belly measure 
in these first drafts. _ 

To set the Drafting Machine begin with Plate 
3, and arrange each part in the order of the 
letters. The first part of the machine to fix is 
A, the second part B, and so on. 

FIRST. Set A to the waist measure by 

putting the end of the plate at the waist size 
32; fasten the screw. 

SECOND. Set B to the seat measure by 
putting the' end of the piece at 36, the seat 
or hip measure. 

THIRD. Set C to the seat measure by 

putting the center of the screw at 36. 

FOURTH. Set D to the knee measure 1 9. 

FIFTH. Set E to the foot measure 18. 

SIXTH. Set F to the inside length from 
crotch to foot 32. 

SEVENTH. Set G to the inside length 
from crotch to foot 32. 

EIGHTH. Set H at 10, the difference 
between the outside length 42 and the inside 
length 32. That is, after setting the length 
from the crotch down 32 for inside length, add 
enough from the crotch up at H to make the 
full outside length, in this case 42 inches. 

This completes the front, Plate 3. Before 
markine out the front we shall arrange the 
back, as shown in Plate 4. 




PLATE 3. 



TO SET THE MACHINE— Continued. 



TO SET THE MACHINE -Continued. 



HOW TO SET THE BACK PART. 




Before setting the back part loosen the . 
screws only one turn. 

This part is arranged the same as the front. 
The next letter is J, so that is the next point to 
fix. 

NINTH. Set J to the seat measure by put- 
ting the center of the screw on 36, the seat 
size.' 

TENTH. Set K to the waist measure by 

putting the center of the screw on the waist 
size 32. 

ELEVENTH. Set L to the seat measure 

by putting the end of the piece at 36. 

TWELFTH. Set M to the seat measure 

by putting the end of the piece at 36. 

THIRTEENTH. Set N to the seat meas- 
ure by putting the center of the screw on 36. 

FOURTEENTH. Set O to the knee 
measure 19. 

FIFTEENTH. Set P to the foot meas- 
ure 18. 

SIXTEENTH. Set Q to the inside length 



SEVENTEENTH. 

length 32. 



Set R to the inside 



EIGHTEENTH. Set S the same as H by 
addine enough to the inside length to make 
the full outside length. Thus as the inside is 
32 from the crotch down, add 10 at H and we 
have 42, the full outside length. In other 
words, S and H are set at the difference 
between the outside and inside length, in this 
case 42-32=10. . 

Scales L and T have little .to do with the 
size from the crotch up. They are used to give 
more or less bias to this part of the back. 
When screws J and K are properly fastened 
you can move the top of the machine to the 
right or left without changing the size. But you 
can add more bias by moving the top to the 
right, and less bias by moving it to the left. 
Screw L, when fastened, will hold it in position. 



PLATE 4. 



AMERICAN SCIENTIFIC PANTALOON DELINEATOR. 



TO MARK OUT THE PATTERNS. 



Set the machine according to the measures and place it on the material just as you 'would a 
paper pattern. 

Remember to have the o-oods double, that is, two thicknesses. See that the front and back 
are each in the place you desire them to be. Then mark carefully around the front with tailors' 
chalk or colored pencil, and you get the outline of Plate 5, as given by the black lines A, B, C, D, 
E, A. These are the lines just as the machine gives them. The clotted lines show what you are 
to add on both Plates 5 and 6. 

Having marked the front carefullv at the fork at E, without moving the machine mark in the 
slot from F down to Y, (see Plate 5). Have the top of the line at F as high as E. Next mark line F, 
A. This is done by keeping the point of the machine at A as a pivot. Move the bottom back until 
point E at the crotch comes back to the top of the line at F; then mark from A down to F, and 
you have the amount to come off for the dress side, the line A, F, Y. 

At the foot allow for hem the required amount (usually 2 inches), as shown by G below 
line D, C. 

The lines marked are the cutting lines, { inch seams being allowed. 

Having finished the front next mark the back. See that it is placed on the material in 
proper position ; then simply mark around this part ol the machine as you would a paper pattern, 
and you get the outline as shown by Plate 6. The black lines H, I, J. K, L, H. 

Allow 2 inches at the bottom for hem as shown by dotted line M, and i inch for outlet on 
the inside seam as shown by dotted line N, O, P. The cutting lines are H, I, J, M, N, O, P. 

The regular sewing line on the inside of the leg is ] inch inside of H, L, K, the same as it is 
| inside of I, J, the outside seams. The extra inch on the inside is only to be used if 
needed. 

The waist H, I is i-^ inches longer than the measure requires, this being on purpose. We cut 
out a Y as shown by O, S, R. This is -|- inch Avide from O to R, and 4 inches deep to S. The 
other inch comes out in seams \ at I, \ at R, ] at O, and ] at H. That is, cut a V J- inch wide 
at the top, and then use \ inch seams, and we get the regular waist size. 

R is usually 2 inches from I. 

Do not forget to allow for the hem at G and M. 

This completes the first pattern. 



THE OUTLINE FRONT AND BACK. 





PLATE 6. 



PLATE 5. 



IO 



AMERICAN SCIENTIFIC PANTALOON DELINEATOR. 



HOW TO RAISE THE WAIST LlNE IN FRONT. 



CORPULENT FIGURES. 

THE CHANGES REQUIRED FOR THEM. 

C- - - 



When the belly is extremely large the sug- 
gestions given on page 14 (Plate 11) will be use- 
ful, but generally they are not required to be 
used even for quite stout forms. 

Remember that the measure for corpulent 
persons should be taken rather loose. 

We shall use the following measures : 

42 Waist "1 ^ , . 1 T .1 
c 39 Outside Length. 



44 Seat 
21 Knee 
19 Foot 



29 Inside Length. 



Arrange both the front and the back of the 
machine as explained on page 6, and, in the order 
of the letters, according to the above measures. 
Place them both on the material as you desire. 

Mark all around the front in the usual way 
from A to B, B to C, C to D, D to E, E to A. 
See Plate 7. Also mark for the dress as ex- 
plained on page 8, from Y to F, and from A to F. 
Add at the bottom two inches at X for hem. 

Now what we wish to call your attention to 
particularly is that when the stomach is large it 
is necessary to raise the waist line in front at 
the top of the fly at A. For each size or inch 
the waist exceeds 36, raise point A one-eighth 
of an inch. Thus if the waist is 42 take 36 
from it, and you have left 6. Now we raise 
point A -§- in. for one size, and for 6 sizes we raise 
it -§- or six times as much, |- being just |- of an 
inch. Raise A f- inch to G, and mark the waist 
line from G to B, as shown by the dotted line. 
The fly line is also continued up to G. 




PLATE 7. 



CORPULENT FIGURES— Continued. 



i i 



How to Make the Seat more or less Bias and have 

Extra Goods when desired. 




See that the back of the machine is 
properly arranged according to the meas- 
ure on the preceding page. See that it is 
placed on the material properly. 

Mark all around it, from H to I, I to 
J, J to K, K to L, L to H. 

You will find it an advantage to 
have the cloth, from the fork up, well on 
the bias for fleshy people. When you set 
scale L (Plate 4) on the back of the 
machine at the seat measure, the mater- 
ial from the crotch up is as bias as most 
cutters like, but some good ones prefer to 
have point 1 (Plate 8) more to the right. Put 
point I 4- inch more to the right if you 
prefer, and fasten with screw at L (see 
Plate 4). If you need the seat less on the 
bias at any time, move I to the left to N, 
as shown by the dotted line M N (Plate 8). 
This shapes all the cloth from the crotch 
up. Point I can be moved to the right 
as far as you like. The scales I and J . 
are only general guides. 

Fleshy people usually require point 
I far to the right. They sit a great deal 
and require plenty of seat room. The 
object of putting the goods above the 
crotch line on the bias is to take advan- 
tage of the stretch of the material. 

When you require an extra amount of 
goods across the seat move the screw at 
N (Plate 4) l inch to the left of the seat 
measure, where this screw is usually fast- 
ened. 

The V, as shown here by O Q P, is 
the usual size, -£- in. being cut out at the 
top, running to a point at Q 4^- inches 
down. The seams at O and P are £ in. 
deep ; so that the V takes up just 1 in. 
of cloth when finished. When the seat 
measure is large and the waist measure 
small, that is, more 'than 6 inches differ- 
ence, you can increase the size of the V 
by adding 3 or 4 sizes extra to the waist 
size, and then taking them out again in 
the V. Whatever you add extra to the 
waist size, add to the usual l- in. which is 
cut out at O P for the V. When the seat 
is cut on the bias it is hardly necessary to 
increase the size of the V. 

Don't forget to add 2 inches of goods at 
the foot X for hem, and one inch on the 
inside seam as shown by dotted line Z 
for outlet. 



PLATE 8. 



i2 AMERICAN SCIENTIFIC PANTALOON DELINEATOR. 



TIGHT-FITTING PANTALOONS. 



When Trousers are tight in the seat as well in the legs you should have the back 
from the crotch up well on the bias. Keep in mind that close-fitting garments require 
tight measures. 

We shall use the following" : 



34 Waist 
38 Seat 
17 Knee 
17 Foot 



43 Outside measure. 



32 Inside measure. 



Set each part of the machine (both front and back) according to the above measures. 

Place the front part in the required position and mark around it carefully, and you get the 
outline as shown by Plate 9. At the fork mark for the dress side as shown by the dotted line A, 
F, Y, and as explained on page 8. 

Next place the. back part in proper position. See that the part from the fork up is on the bias. 
Mark carefully around the back part from H to I, I to J, J to K, K to L, and L to H, as shown 
by the black lines, Plate 10. 

When the legs are tight — even when only medium tight — and for very fleshy persons, a swell 
is required on the back piece over the calf of the leg. 

Having marked the back all around make a dot on each side of the leg, | of the distance 
from the knee to the bottom and -} of an inch out from the leg, as shown by S ; make another 
dot half way from S to the bottom, touching the line as shown at T. 

R is 1 inch below the knee. Curve from R to S and S to T. And when the bottom has 
much spring add F inch or more from J and K to U, and continue the curve from T on to U. 

The V is the same as before described. 

Remember to add 2 inches for hem at the bottom, and 1 inch for the outlet along the inside 
seam from H to L and on to K, or U. 



THE OUTLINE FOR TIGHT-FITTING. 



13 





PLATE 10. 



PLATE 9. 



14 



AMERICAN SCIENTIFIC PANTALOON DELINEATOR. 



How to Make Room for an Extra Large Belly. 



We shall use the following measures. 



c .^ Outside Length, 40. 
Seat, 46 J s ** 

Knee, 23 f T - , T , 

Foot, 2i J Inslde Len ^ th ' 3°- 

Set the machine according to the above 
measures, and mark out in the usual way, as shown 
on Plate 11, by A-B, B-C, C-D, D-E and E 
to A. 

Now when the belly is out of proportion to 
the rest of the figure, and protrudes more than 
it ought, you can add from ] to J inch on the 
fly line at the fullest part, which is usually at H, 
4 inches below A, the waist line. Dot at J, -]- or 
4? inch to the left of H. As the belly is large 
you must raise the waist line at A to G, as ex- 
plained on page 10, Plate 7. The fly line then 
is shaped from G at the raised waist line out 
to J, and then curved. back to the line A — H at 
K, which is down where the curve for the fork 
begins. The dress side is shaped the same from 
G to K, on to F and to Y. 

Many cutters add for belly where it is not re- 
quired, or add more than is needed. If the 
belly is large and protrudes and you add more 
goods than is required for comfort, you simply 
make the deformity more noticeable. 

Always fit the belly when large as close as 
you can without making it uncomfortable for 
the wearer. 




PLATE 11 



SUGGESTIONS. i5 



SUGGESTIONS. 



Remember that Pantaloons can be properly cut and yet spoiled in the making. 

In order to be successful you will need to look after the making and finishing of gar- 
ments as well as the cutting. Notch the seams at bottom, knee and seat. 

We suggest that you make a notch on both the front and back at the following points, 
to assist you in seeing whether the parts are properly put together. Notch each side at the 
bottom line where the turn is to be made, at the knee point where the machine gives it and at 
the crotch line on both outside and inside seams. 

Have these notches meet at the foot, knee and crotch. You will find the back ^ inch 
longer from the knee to the foot than the front on the seam lines. This little extra length on 
the back is fulled in near the bottom ; and when the front is shrunk, and the seams here are 
pressed, this helps to form the bottom a"nd gives a graceful shape over the foot. 

When the notches at the crotch and knee, front and back, are brought together, the back will 
be found -]- inch shorter than the front from the knee to the crotch. The front is stretched a trifle 
from 6 inches above the knee to the crotch line. The object is to keep the back part of the leg 
from sagging, or wrinkling across the thigh. 

After the seams are stitched and the legs are pressed, you will find it neccessary to measure the 
inside seams. Some materials will stretch, others shrink irt working. By testing the inside length 
before finishing the bottom you can save yourself much trouble, and prevent the Trousers from 
being returned. 

Many good cutters overlook this point to their sorrow. 

CORPULENT FIGURES 

Require the Front to be raised as explained on page 10, Plate 7. For each inch that the waist 
is larger than 36, raise waist line in front -^ inch. Thus if the waist is 40 it is 4 inches more 
than 36, so the front is to be raised at the waist line four-eighths (^-) or ^ inch. 

RAISE THE WAIST LINE IN FRONT. 

This extra height in front will be appreciated by fat men. There are few things they dislike 
more than to have their trousers too low or too short in front. 

PLENTY OF SEAT ROOM. 

Corpulent men require plenty of seat room. Even if they have plenty of goods when standing, 
when they sit down there is a binding around the seat, a drawing from the knee up to the 
crotch. To obviate these troubles will require all your skill. Cut the seat on the bias. 
Add extra goods \ inch at scale N (Plate 4), by moving screw at N \ in. to the left. Take a loose 
measure around the seat. 

AT THE BOTTOM OF THE LEG. 

See that the front is not cut up too high in the center nor the back dropped too much at the 
Heel. The fit at the foot has much to do with the look of the leg. Remember that when the 
pantaloons drag at the heel every step and scrape up the dirt, the cutter and maker are 
usually to blame, and that such trousers never give satisfaction to the wearer. 



■n 



16 AMERICAN SCIENTIFIC PANTALOON DELINEATOR. 



The Full Set of Men's Garment Drafting 

Machines 

Is expected to be ready for the trade by March, 1892. 

The machines are now in the hands of experts who will use them daily for three months, the 
object being to have them thoroughly tested and proven correct in each part before offering them to 
the public. As soon as the testing is completed we shall make the tools required for their manu- 
facture at our factory, where the Dress Drafting Machines and the Pantaloon machines are now 
produced. 



The full outfit for Gentlemen's Garments is as follows. 



Price, Price, 

With Personal Machine and 

Instruction. Books only. 



The Prince Albert Coat Delineator, $25. $20 

" Sack Coat " 25. 20 

" Sleeve " 5. 3 

" Vest " 20. 15 

" Pantaloon " 25. 20 



too. $78. 

Twenty per cent, will be added to the above prices for Nickel- Plated Machines. 

The price " with personal instructions" includes as many lessons as you want, not limited in 
number. The price, for "machine and books only" means without " personal instruction." That 
is, you get the instruction books and the machines alone for the latter price. 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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